Saturday, 31 March 2012

Life in the fast lane; Hanoi, Vietnam

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
My four days in Hanoi flew by, everything seemed to fly by in Hanoi and nothing flew quicker than the traffic! 

Navigating the streets (for it was rare to find a footpath you could actually walk on), was a whole new and sometimes unnerving experience. Each time I made a successful crossing after having weaved, dodged and pirouetted my way through the traffic I felt like I had achieved the near impossible.

While I was waiting for openings on one side of the street my finger would start twitching for the camera and I would hang myself out over the gutter and snap the hundreds of faces that would be flying past me. It soon became a favourite pastime......these photos are a few of the end results.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
The Old Quarter

I loved staying in the old quarter of Hanoi, I spent most of my time there as it's the heart and soul of the city. I loved the vitality and frenetic pace and the remaining French colonial buildings are gorgeous, albeit rundown. Here the vietnamese seemingly go about their very busy lives paying little attention to the tourists.

The smell and sight of food is everywhere, it is either being prepared, cooked or eaten. Life seems extremely social with endless groups of the young and not so young chatting, eating and drinking while seated on teensy tiny little plastic stools that sit only a few inches from the ground. 

Women move gracefully through the traffic (unlike myself)! and balance their baskets brimming with pineapples and mangos (cut and ready to eat), as well as dragon fruit, paw paw and every other fruit and/or vegetable. Their heads and faces are sheltered from the elements by their traditional conical woven hats. 

The streets in the old quarter are named after the merchandise or produce that was traded there in the past, and today many of the streets still have their specialty products; some are lined with shops selling sunglasses others propaganda posters, fabric, shoes, jewellery or paper products.

The shops / houses in this quarter are typically only a few meters wide and up to 60 meters deep (apparently in the past shop keepers were taxed according to the width of their property), hence the living quarters were (and still are I imagine) situated in the back and the houses were known as 'tube houses'.

Hotels

I stayed in (and can recommend) the Hotel Hanoi Elegance Saphire on Hang Bong Street, I adore this street name, its impossible to forget. Many of the street names in the old quarter start with the word Hang as it means merchandise or shop and Hang Bong apparently means Store of Cotton.

I also stayed in the Aranya Hotel it's on the same street and both are good choices.

Drop by the Metropole Hotel (situated in the Hoan Kiem district and close to the Opera House) for lunch, dinner, or as I did just for a pick me up cup of coffee. Its the Raffles of Hanoi.


Halong Bay


I dont think anyone can go to Hanoi without visiting the magnificent Halong Bay (a four hour road trip from Hanoi), that is unless you are me, and the boats are not permitted to leave the harbour because of bad weather! The 8 hour bus trip (there and back) in the one day along with the disappointment of missing 2 days and 1 night on the boat was not the highlight of my time in Vietnam I have to say.  However, I now have a very good reason to return to Hanoi. 


Tom Coc

Do make the 2 hour trip to Tom Coc, here you can cycle and boat your way through the Halong Bay of the rice paddies, the scenery is truly spectacular.

The boat ride is approximately 2 hours in total, and you may like to grab the extra oar and help your boat's oarsman/woman out every now and again, (I'm not totally sure if I helped or hindered mine, but it gave my arms a good work out either way)!  They actually rowed most of the way very skillfully with their feet.

Don't avoid this trip because of the number of tourists that flock there. If you leave it later in the day and visit the temples of Hua Lu before Tom Coc you may have less boats on the river in the late afternoon than earlier in the day. But check this out with the hotel.

And to finish off....... a few more faces on the move in Hanoi, enjoy your weekend.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Millie x

Thursday, 29 March 2012

Cambodia and Laos...'Because of your smile you make life more beautiful' Thich Nhat Hanh


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
A little girl runs to give me a lotus flower (which I proudly kept in my room for many days), Cambodia


I have been traveling in southeast Asia and I have not blogged in a few weeks.... besides having very little time to do so my main reason is that I simply did not know how to put into words the experiences I was living at the time...and I still do not know.

It is my hope that my photos will replace these 'lost' words and help tell the story of the incredibly wonderful and resilient people I met in both Laos and Cambodia.


I felt so many emotions during my time there......I was overjoyed, I was sad, I was happy, I was HOT, I smiled a lot, I cried a little (behind closed doors)! but mainly I was amazed, amazed by the courage and fortitude of people whose everyday hardships never seemed to wipe the smile from their faces, whose gratitude at the smallest gesture of kindness or even just recognition was overwhelming. 

I shared their stories, I shared their meals, I partook in their ceremonies, I sang with them, I was hugged and I hugged,  I laughed with them......these four amazing weeks and these equally amazing people will stay in my heart forever. 

Here are some of the images I hope convey the emotion and huge respect I feel for these people.


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012



Cambodian children paddling back from the floating school to their floating homes in Tonle Sap lake (there is always time for a lolly pop!)



© Copyright Millie Brown 2012

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
A loatian woman and her beautiful smile help pass the time at a roadblock



© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Boys cleaning the fishing nets on the shores of the Mekong river, Laos

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Boys being boys on the river island of Don Khon, in Southern Laos

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Rice pickers employed for the harvest and their makeshift plastic tents 
outside of Siem Reap, Cambodia




© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Cambodia


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
A beautiful girl and her smile on Tonle Sap Lake (The largest freshwater lake in southeast Asia)

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Weighing the fruit and veg at the floating green grocer on Tonle Sap Lake


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
A Nun sits with her offerings in a Temple, Cambodia

I consider myself blessed to have had the opportunity to cross paths with these people and the many others that touched my heart and I thank them for their never ending generosity of spirit and their smiles which radiated from morning to night. 

Thank you also to Yaz, Dunakeo and Sichanh Duangmara, my very special friends from Laos who welcomed me into their home and their family, I can never forget their warmth and hospitality and the wonder at being part of such a beautiful and touching ceremony, thank you again and again.







Related and recommended reading

In the shadow of Angkor, Contemporary writing from Cambodia (Frank Stewart, Sharon May Editors) 

The Khmer Rouge Tribunal (edited by John D Ciorciari)

When Broken Glass Floats - by Chanrithy Him

Her Father's Daughter - by Alice Pung

Note:  
When Broken Glass Floats and Her Father's Daughter make harrowing reading. I read these two books prior to my departure for Cambodia and they helped me gain some sort of understanding of the magnitude of suffering that the khmer Rouge inflicted on the khmer people; over 1 in 4 cambodians perished from either starvation, torture, execution or disease.


I have only just started the book The Khmer Rouge Tribunal, it has been written to give an overview of the issues surrounding the tribunal and why the call for justice has never really been successful and is still proceeding (albeit with all its frustrations) to this day.


In the shadow of Angkor I read whilst in Cambodia and  I struggled to put  it down.  It marks the 25th anniversary of the defeat of the Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia, and 'reveals the vibrant written culture that flourishes in Cambodia today'. There are samples from writers who were prominent before the Khmer Rouge as well as stories from contemporary writers, interviews, memoirs and poetry. It is a stunning book.


Millie xx

Monday, 5 March 2012

The old and the new Buddha

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
A monk sculpts a cement Statue of Buddha 

I'm in Luang Prabang and while the sun is at its strongest and hottest I thought I would stay in the cool and blog a post.

It's only a few months since my last visit to Laos and I am once again enjoying the warmth and hospitality of the Lao people and making new discoveries.

In a city known for its enormous number of Buddhist temples you are bound to come across the odd statue or two of Buddha!  There are the very old and the very new and I came across both in the one morning.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
The toes are getting a lot of attention

Here (above) in an unfinished building in the grounds of the Temple of Vat Nong Sikhounmuang I had the good timing and good fortune to be passing by just as a monk was busy and concentrated on sculpting a cement statue of Buddha. Unfortunately the language barrier between us meant that I did not have the opportunity to gather much more information however I was content to watch him at work and snap some photos at the same time.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Restoring a 200 year old statue of Buddha at The Buddha Restoration Studio

Further into my day after having visited a sublime photographic exhibition called 'The floating Buddha' by German photographer Hans Georg Berger I happily discovered the Buddha Restoration Studio located in the same building and in the grounds of the Palace Museum.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012

This statue is 200 years old the one behind it is 100 years old
The restoration work being done here currently is part of a 3 week project between The Lao Department of Fine Arts, Information of Culture and Tourism and the private Japanese Minobusan University in Minobu, Yamanashi prefecture.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
The studio itself is part of the Training Technicians of Restoration in Buddhist Art and part of the world heritage of Luang Prabang here

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012

Looking at some of the before photos (where there were missing arms and huge gaping holes) it is clear that the work they are doing is extremely delicate and the results amazingly successful.


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012

.........from Buddha to fishing, I'm now off to find some fishermen on The Mekong.

Millie x
©Copyright Millie Brown 2012
All photos copyrighted please do not download

Thursday, 23 February 2012

Discover France with In-Room


© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
For those of you traveling to France (or those already there) and interested in finding the best of the best on offer in not only Paris but many of the other beautiful regions and cities in France, here is the website that will quickly get you to where you want to go and to what you want to experience.

In-Room is a new, high end and importantly user friendly website highlighting the best of everything on offer in various destinations within France.....click here to enter

They tell us.....

''We have kept our site deliberately clutter-free and simple so it’s easy to navigate, with destination links to find that specific place in France, and categories to find where to stay, eat, shop etc'' 

''An event calendar with the highlights in the whole of France is also available under explore. Our special offers have their own spot in the main menu, as they may actually influence your entire travel plan''!

I can personally recommend this site, because I know that the people behind the scenes live and breath France, and appreciate quality and good service.  Now fortunately for us they are sharing their inside knowledge on In-Room!

Bookmark this site and enjoy exploring, discovering and booking the best there is in France.


Millie x

Sunday, 19 February 2012

Le Marais, Paris, France

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Summer play time in Place des Vosges

The Marais, Paris:
I moved apartments so many times when I was living in Paris that I know many of its arrondissements like the back of my hand.

My last apartment before leaving for Italy was located in the Marais and is undoubtedly one of my favourite areas of Paris.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Vintage on Place des Vosges

Many of the districts in Paris have a distinct village feel to them and if you never wanted to venture further than your own arrondissement you would still have everything that you could possibly need or desire within a short walking distance.   It is this intimate village atmosphere that I miss in my daily life when I am not there.

Whenever I moved to a new area of Paris, the first thing I did was to put on my walking shoes and explore every nook and cranny, to find all my 'special' spots that would sustain me in my daily life.

Finding the best coffee and croissant was always number one priority on my list, followed by the yummiest pastries, the freshest fruit and veg (this is very often the closest open air market), my favourite café terrace, the best baguette sandwich, the local cheese shop..... there were of course other non food related necessities to find but they were always a little less important to me somehow.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
The gorgeous architecture of Place des Vosges

For me the heart of the Marais district is undoubtedly the Place des Vosges, it is hard not to love this beautiful historical square and there are many ways to enjoy it.....wander into the many art galleries or cafés, browse the vintage shops and boutiques, enjoy a picnic on the grass or visit the Victor Hugo Museum. The atmosphere always seems to be relaxed and happy and it's a great place to bring the kids, they love the sandpits, play equipment and fountains.


The Marais spreads over the 3rd and 4th arrondissements and is an area of great historical importance and beauty. It became the fashionable area for the aristocracy back in the 16th & 17th Centuries, hence the abundance of magnificent hotels (mansions) that we can still see today.  After the revolution of 1789 the area was abandoned and left to rot, and it wasn't until the 60's that the restoration commenced and the Marais was returned to its former glory and has since become one of the most fashionable areas of Paris.


It is importantly also one of the few areas of Paris that was not razed by Napoleon III's modernization program which saw Baron Haussmann re-plan medieval Paris (1853 - 1870) to its current city plan (long wide boulevards and parks), and is why the Marais still retains its small cobbled streets and authentic Parisian atmosphere, as well as some of the few remaining medieval buildings in Paris.

Here are some of the places that I loved (and still love) to visit and which were also part of my daily life in the Marais, you may also enjoy them. 

Museums and galleries
82 rue François Miron
75004
Permanent and visiting exhibitions as well as a great library, bookshop and café

62 rue St Antoine
75004
A magnificent example of 17th Century Louis XIII architecture, and was the home of one of Henri the IV's ministers. Enter either from Place des Vosges or from rue St Antoine. Enjoy the gorgeous little garden and wonderful book shop. Also housed here is one of the two Jeu de Paume museums of Paris,  which host some great photographic exhibitions. 

Hotel Salé
 5 rue de Thorigny
75003
 Closed until summer 2013

23 rue de Sévigné
75003
A museum devoted to the History of Paris. This is a must do in my opinion not only for the museum and gallery of artwork but for its architectural beauty and its gardens.

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012

Looking to the street from the Square Georges Cain on rue Payenne
Cafe / Bistro / Restaurants
Au Bouquet St Paul
85 rue St Antoine
75004
Love the ambiance here, and try the crèpes, a friend of mine couldn't get enough of them and I found her here every morning during her week in Paris.

Chez Janou
2 rue Roger Verlomme
75003
One of my favourite places to have a drink and eat. Book if you want the terrace on a summer night or arrive early.

Les Temps des Cerises
31 rue de la Cerisaie
75004
A tiny place buzzing with locals so arrive early for lunch, great value.

Village Saint Paul
rue Saint Paul
75004
A village within a village, wonderful bric a brac, vintage, antiques, art and little places to eat and drink. Unfortunately I cannot remember the name of my favourite place for  coffee and cake but look for the winiest place tucked into a corner and you will have found it! 



Ma Patissière

© Copyright Millie Brown 2012
Au Petit Versailles du Marais
1 rue Tiron and François Miron 
75004

Pastries / Desserts / Coffee & Tea
Le Loir dans la Théière
 3 rue des Rosiers
75004
Settle in here for the afternoon, a comfortable, cozy and eclectic café that serves great heart warming desserts.


Mariage Frères 
click here
30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg
75004
Its a tea emporium, museam and tea salon with beautiful pastries. Visit even if you don't have time to sit and indulge. I always buy my tea here and take it with me wherever I am in the world.
(This is one of only many Mariage Frères emporiums in Paris)


Little specialty food store
Produits Exotiques
30 rue François Miron
75004
It is like stepping back in time, its tiny but it has everything (even my favourite french olive oil from Les Baux )


Parks
Square Leopold Achille
rue du Parc Royal
75004


Square Georges Cain
rue Payenne
75004


Place
Place du marché St Catherine
off rue d'Ormesson
75004
Tree lined tiny quaint square with numerous restaurants and only a few steps away from the Place des Vosges.

Food markets
Le Marché des Enfants Rouges
The oldest covered market in paris.
39 rue Bretagne
75003
(Not open Mondays)
click here for opening hours


Bastille Market
Boulevard Richard Lenoir
Situated in the 11th arrondissement but two steps from the Marais area.
The biggest outdoor food market in Paris and in my opinion one of the very best, its wonderful, don't miss it.
(Thursdays and Sundays until around 2.30pm)

Wine
Nicolas 
rue Saint Antoine
75004
They are a chain, and I love them.  I have always found the staff to be friendly and helpful and they have a good selection.

Department Store
BHV (Bazaar Hotel de Ville)
52  rue de Rivoli
75004
Called as such because it is opposite the Hotel de Ville
You can find anything your heart desires here.... from cosmetics to hardware items

Favourite Streets
rue des Rosiers 
rue Francs Bougeois
rue Vieille du Temple
rue St Paul
rue Bourg  Tibourg

There is so much to discover and enjoy in this area of Paris as there is in all of the other corners of this gorgeous city, enjoy!



Millie xx
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