Travel Notecards: ITALY

Showing posts with label ITALY. Show all posts

Monday, 7 January 2013

Five Things to Love about Florence with guest bloggers An Affair with Italy

I'm thrilled to have the stylish and gorgeous girls Julie Adams and Emma Scott founders of online magazine An Affair with Italy taking us to some of their favorite Florentine addresses.

Julie and Emma travel the world capturing beautiful, heartfelt, inspiring and often unexpected stories about all things Italian. Having just returned from a recent trip to Italy, Julie and Emma share five reasons to fall in love with Florence.

1. The Bar at The Continentale, for the incredible view of The Ponte Vecchio.

On one of our first nights in Florence, Julie and I excitedly bounded up the stairs to the roof top bar at stunning hotel, The Continentale. We had been told the view was spectacular but actually... it was breathtaking. A drink at The Continentale roof top bar is a must do on any Florence trip.

©Julie Adams for An Affair with Italy

Address: Vicolo dell’Oro

2. For gift shopping we love to visit Ortigia.

I first discovered the small Italian soap and scent company Ortigia when I stumbled across the wonderfully vibrant shop on a previous trip to Florence. As a designer, I fell in love with the bold, hand-drawn illustrations of palm trees and leopards silhouetted against an array of Sicilian landscape-inspired bright colours. Initially, the visual brand drew me in, but it’s the product that keeps me coming back – beautiful scents, luxurious textures and formulas of natural indigenous Sicilian ingredients. I adore the translucent soap range, each tinted in a different colour (I’m collecting every fragrance). Ortigia is one of my first stops whenever I visit Florence.

©Julie Adams for An Affair with Italy

Address: Borgo S. Jacopo 12/R

3. For a local Florentine experience - visit Mercato di Sant’ Ambrogio in the early morning... and pop in to the famous Caffè Cibrèo for a coffee and brioche at the bar. For a truly authentic Florentine experience you can’t go past the Cibreo Cafe – incredible food and a wonderful atmosphere. You will feel like you are part of the Florentine world. And while you are there, watch the locals descend on the adjacent Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio markets for the freshest of local ingredients.

Make sure you don’t leave without your own bundle of goodies – perhaps a punnet of juicy tomatoes or a wonderfully pungent slice of mouth-watering cheese.

©Julie Adams for An Affair with Italy

Address: Via del Verrocchio, 5r

4. Treasure hunting at Piazza dei Ciompi

Anywhere I go I love a bit of vintage treasure hunting, so I was thrilled to discover the Florence 'mercantino' or flea market, found at Piazza dei Ciompi - a wonderful collection of shops and stalls selling antiques, art, old books and various vintage bits and pieces. The stalls are set up in the shadow of Vasari's Loggia del Pesce, but on the last Sunday of the month vendors come from outside Florence and the make-shift shops extend out to the surrounding streets.

©Julie Adams for An Affair with Italy

Address: Piazza dei Ciompi

5. For an unforgettable stay look no further than JK Place....your home away from home.

From the moment we walked through the doors of the elegant JK Place, Florence we knew we had found somewhere very special. Mr Ori Kafri, the genius hotelier behind the brand, truly understands service. His philosophy: when you come to JK Place consider it your home away from home. Mr Kafri has gone to great lengths to ensure at every moment of your stay you feel a warmth and care, normally reserved for moments with family and friends. Somehow you feel like you're the only ones in this stylish boutique hotel....with your own private service staff.

Image Thanks to JK Place, Forence

Address: Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 7

Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Christmas lights of Florence

As I head off on an Asian adventure for a couple of weeks (without a computer, which I am actually quite excited about), I wanted to wish you all a beautiful Christmas. May it be full of beauty, warmth and love, no matter where you are in the world.

Millie xx

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Thursday, 24 November 2011

Apartment swap - Paris / Venice

I knew who was getting the better end of the deal in the nitty gritty of the apartment swap but as far as the location went it was pretty equal!

I had just received an email from my dear friend Helen who lives most happily between Venice and Australia, 6 months in Venice from spring to Autumn and back to Australia for its warmer months.

She had the wonderful idea of swapping homes for a week, I would fly to Venice and stay with her for a night and the next day after we had enjoyed a good catch up she would take my house keys and a plane to Paris.

While Marco (Helen's Venetian husband) and Helen's gorgeous roomy apartment is situated on an adorable and quiet canal 10 minutes walk from St Marks square in Venice, my apartment was a studio around 10 times smaller and consisted of a pull out couch bed (albeit a very nice leather one). However, the position of my studio was 'tops', rue St Paul in the Marais and I loved it, and so apparently did Helen. Who spends time in an apartment anyway when the streets of Paris are beckoning.

For the one afternoon and evening that we had together in Venice Helen ran me around like the 'local' that she was (and still is) and I was immediately under the spell...of everything...at that time it had been two years since I had spent any time in Italy and probably 20 years since I had visited Venice.

Since this particular visit I have been lucky enough to have been able to return to Venice a number of times, even taking the train from Florence for a day trip just to experience and see Venice in all its Carnival glory. A huge photo opportunity if ever there is one.

Here are some recommendations that Helen shared with me for

Venice, the city she loves and knows so well.

St Marks square at night (Piazza San Marco)

Helen led me to St Marks square at night and later told me she had done this for a reason. It was only around 8 o'clock but there was hardly a soul on the streets, (it was the last week in September) and I had absolutely no idea what we were heading for....that was until we turned the corner and my re-introduction to this beautiful space quite literally took my breath away. The sheer beauty of the Cathedral with its magnificent mosaic facade, and the grandeur of the square itself is amplified tenfold by the soft lights and the still of night.

If you have the opportunity to experience St Marks square at night after the crowds have disappeared, do it, it is such a very different experience than the one you will have sharing it with thousands of others during the day.

Entry to St Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San Marco)

Helen had left me with a very 'handy' piece of knowledge that saved me quite literally at least an hours wait in a queue. (I am not someone who loves a queue)!

There is no church that will refuse a person the opportunity for prayer and so there is usually an entrance to accommodate these people, and it is usually located to the side and away from the mile long queue that is common in many of the busy and large Cathedrals. If you do not speak the language the sign for prayer is universal and always understood. If you feel that you would like to take the time for prayer look for this door and you will be allowed entry without queuing. More information here

The beautiful domes of St Mark's Basilica taken from Saint Mark's Bell Tower (Camponile di San Marco)

Traghetto

When crossing certain canals in Venice stand up with the locals in a traghetto (much more fun than a vaporetto). My first traghetto experience was crossing the grand canal on the San Sofia Traghetto to get to the Rialto food and fish market (which is fabulous by the way and well worth a visit).

©Copyright Millie Brown 2011

Crossing the Canal on a Traghetto

Disembarking a traghetto

Coffee Standing at the bar in the gorgeous Cafe Florian - St Marks Square

I didn't stand, my feet need resting occasionally, so I sat snuggled into a corner of one of the intimate and gorgeously decorated rooms where I soaked up the warmth of the coffee, the pastries and the atmosphere. Simply divine and I didn't care what it cost! Website here

Scuola grande di San Rocco

Visit the Scuola di San Rocco, it was a confraternity or lay brotherhood and was formed in the 15th Century to help those affected by the plague and give comfort to the poor. It is lavishly decorated with canvases by one of Venice's greatest Renaissance artists Tintoretto. He completed an extraordinary series of religious works throughout the many rooms of the Scuola between 1564 and 1588.
Campo San Rocco, San Polo

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Is one of Venice's most important Basilicas because of the wealth of art that is found here, including Titan's Altarpiece of the Assumption ( a masterpiece of the high Renaissance), a wooden statue of St John the Baptist by Donatello and paintings by Bellini (one of Venice's most famous painters). It is also the burial place for Francesco Foscari (one of the most powerful and important Doges of Venice, 1423 - 1457) as well as Titan himself who died of the plague in 1576.
Campo dei Frari.

Nico's gelato

Head for the Fondamenta Zattere on the Giudecca canal in the Dorsoduro area to stop and choose one of Nico's wonderful gelati. Enjoy it while making your way to the Punta della Dogana Center of Contemporary Art (which houses modern artworks from the Francois Pinault Foundation). This space was formerly the old customs building and was renovated by the Japanese Architect Tadao Ando. Apparently the restoration was done in 18 months.

Best Coffee and Croissants (Cornetti) Caffè del Doge

Helen took me here on my first morning and I returned every day after that! Only in Italy can they make a coffee as good as this and the cornetti alla crema are sensational. The café is located very close to the Rialto bridge, tucked away in a tiny little alleyway called Calle dei Cinque in San Palo, if you cross over the bridge from the San Marco side turn left and it is the 3rd alleyway on your right and down 50 metres or so on the right. Ask one of the waiters from the restaurants if you can't find it.

Cantina Do Mori for Italian tapas (cicchetti) and a glass of wine

Wonderful atmospheric wine bar, again very close to the Rialto bridge. It's a great place to stop for a minute or an hour. When I was there it seemed to be full of locals, they can down their wine and cicchetti while standing at the bar nearly as quickly as their morning coffee! I, however took my time and loved it. Situated in Calle do Mori or Calle Galiazza in San Palo (two entrances). In the area just behind the Rialto market.

An Angel on the facade of the Doge's Palace

Take the 'Secret' tour of the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale)

You will need to book in advance for this one (as I found out) , you can book online or if you are in a hotel they may be able to get you tickets.

Unlike the regular tour the secret tour takes you to many of the hidden passages and rooms of this palazzo from where the Doges ruled the Republic of Venice for hundreds of years. It will also give you an insight into some of the the darker secrets of Medieval and Renaissance Venice. More Information and tickets here

Like Florence.........I could go on and on, but I simply have to end somewhere.

Thank you Helen and Marco for having loaned me your wonderful home and for having given me the gift of one glorious week in Venice.

Recommended reading

A History of Venice - John Julius Norwich

Journey from Venice - Ruth Cracknell

Venice - Jan Morris

Paris Map
Street map Venice Italy

Millie x

These photos are copyrighted, do not download, thank you :-)
©copyright Millie Brown 2011

Friday, 11 November 2011

Let's speak Italian

Let us suppose you have taken my recent advice and you have made a couple of trips to the Institut in Villefranche, you are conversing easily in French and are still madly in love with everything French.........but maybe, just maybe, you ventured over the border to the east and fell under the spell of Italy and everything Italian, the spirit and passion of the Italians, their food, their art, their history......and of course their language.

Is there a more romantic, beautiful sounding language in the world? I will leave the answer to you. I love both French and Italian equally, however I certainly don't speak both equally as well, having only recently commenced my Italian studies. Lets just say that in Italy I am very used to confused faces staring back at me, even when I am sure that what I just said was a sentence of grammatical perfection, their looks make it clear that I must either be completely delusional or my accent is somewhere near atrocious, (or horror of horrors both)!

I am however making progress and I have two wondeful Italians in Florence to thank for that. If you are lucky enough to spend any amount of time in this divine city why not dip your toe in and get started. Just be aware that when you do decide to let 'your version of Italian' loose onto the unsuspecting Italian public you too may not always get the response you hoped for. However maybe you will not be quite as delusional about your ability to form that 'perfect' sentence as I clearly am!

Marcello Ciao from the school Spirito Italiano http://www.spiritoitaliano.com/ and Lucia Ducci are my 'picks' and I can not speak highly enough of them as people and as teachers. Both have helped me enormously and I love their company, their humour and their PATIENCE!! (God love them, they have needed every ounce of it with me). Lucia is contactable on her email address; lucia.ducci@libero.it.

Separate to Marcello's teaching is his business as an agency for some wonderful apartment rentals in Florence. While hotels are great for short stays, apartments are my choice of accommodation for any stays over a weeks duration. I have enjoyed the peace of mind that organising an apartment through Marcello brings, you can ALWAYS be sure that he will do his absolute utmost to make sure you are 110% happy and comfortable. http://www.florenceapartmentitaly.com, he is a delight and so are his apartments.

Note: Learn Italian audio:
For those of you who cannot get to Italy to study the language, I can highly recommend the book 'Teach yourself Italian' by Lydia Vellaccio. I used this method prior to commencing my studies in class. I found it extremely useful and practical (2 cd's are also included). Unfortunately it is not available for sale through my Amazon shop however click here to purchase.

Buon weekend à tutti

Millie x

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Friday, 14 October 2011

Loving and living in Florence

My favourite busker, I pay...he blows a kiss!

For many reasons I never imagined loving any other city in the world as much as I love Paris....Florence was my happy surprise. Two very different cities, however I feel as passionate about one as I do about the other, and for quite different reasons.

The Adelaide magazine, Adelaide Matters, recently asked me to put pen to paper and write 10 things I love to do in Florence. The only problem I had with that was keeping it down to 10.

I would like to share just a few of the experiences mentioned on that list as well as some of my first black and white photos of Florence taken while I was at photography school. I developed and printed these images in the school darkroom and it became my 'home' and my obsession. If I was not traveling somewhere or walking the streets of Florence that is where I was to be found, day and night, and I loved it.

Santa Croce
One of my favourite areas of Florence is Santa Croce. Start in Piazza Santa Croce and visit the Franciscan Basilica, this church is the burial place for Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli, among other illustrious Florentines. It is also home to some of the most famous late Medieval and Renaissance art in Florence, including frescoes by Giotto, and Donatello’s crucifix.

While you are in the church, take the time to visit the monastery and the Scuola del Cuoio (The Leather school). Even if you are not in the market for exquisite hand made leather products it is pure pleasure to wander the the old monastic cells and witness the artisans at work.

Cibrèo Caffé and Trattoria
While you don’t have to go far in Florence for a good coffee, take a few minutes of your time to make your way to Cibrèo Caffé (two steps from the wonderful Sant’ Ambrogio food market). Here you will enjoy a warm atmosphere and delicious Italian pastries and coffee with the Florentines.

A further two steps away is Cibrèo Trattoria. Fabio Picchi, the chef and owner is himself a Florentine institution and is the man behind the Cibrèo Caffé,Trattoria and Ristorante. For excellent food at half the price of the Cibrèo Restaurant go to the Trattoria. It can get crowded and you may be sitting on a communal table, but it only adds to the whole experience. Arrive early, they don’t take bookings at the Trattoria.

San Niccolò
Cross over the Arno river to the (Oltrarno) and the area of San Niccolò. Make your way towards Via di San Niccolò and the old gate of San Miniato. This area is the heart of San Niccolò and is a corner of Florence that is both vibrant and relaxed.

While here, take a coffee or a panini at caffé Il Rifrullo followed by a to die for gelato. Another favourite place to eat in this area is Enoteca Fuori Porta, which is situated just past the old gate and city wall as you make your way up Via del Monte alle Croci to Piazza Michelangelo. This is a must do walk, you won’t regret the climb, the view as you walk up and from the Piazza is worth the effort, I promise.

Bardini Gardens

The Bardini gardens have only been open to the public for a few years and are the less crowded alternative to the better known Boboli gardens. I advise entering from Via dei Bardi #1 red, in San Niccolò (the entrance ticket includes a visit to the Boboli gardens). The gardens are situated on a slope overlooking the city, and if you sit and sip a wine in the loggia you will enjoy yet another superb vista of Florence.

View over Florence from the gorgeous Bardini gardens

Enoteca Pitti e Gola Cantina

Exit the Boboli gardens at the Pitti Palace,and then head over to the wine bar directly opposite, Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina, sit on the terrace looking onto the Palace, ask the boys to recommend something from their excellent wine list and order the homemade Ravioli, it quite literally melts in your mouth!!

Brancacci Chapel
If you are an art lover, you must not miss a visit to the Brancacci Chapel in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Here you will get to marvel at one of the most famous pieces of Renaissance art in the world, the frescoes depicting the life of St Peter painted by masters, Masolino and Masaccio.

There is so much to do, see and experience in Florence, it is impossible to put it all in a simple list, I hope to be able to share more notes from one of my favourite cities in the world again, I have so many!

Have a great weekend Millie x

All photos are copyrighted, please do not download :-)

Friday, 30 September 2011

Winner of MB Images Boxed Notecards

Thank you to those who subscribed to the blog 'Travel Notecards'. I will be contacting the winner tomorrow (well in this case winners as I drew out two names) for the prize of one box of MB Images Boxed Notecards.

Cheers Millie