Travel Notecards: LAOS

Showing posts with label LAOS. Show all posts

Tuesday, 15 May 2012

Do's and don'ts of Laos (and Australia)

Cultural differences can mean that when we travel in a foreign environment we can easily offend our hosts without even knowing we are doing so.

I still cringe when I remember my friend Gai's words on her arrival in Luang Prabang (two days after my own), 'you do know you cannot touch a monk or his robes, don't you'?.......I had realised this by the time of her arrival but her confirmation just reiterated the faux pas I had unintentionally made.

I'm positive some of you are saying to yourselves, surely anybody would know this, you don't go slapping your local priest on the back at your first or second meeting!

Let me just say, these were not big bear hugs of a mistake (and they don't need to be to offend), but a simple touching of my friend Monk Sichanh's robe while speaking of it, or a slight brushing of his arm as we chatted together. They were at the time innate human responses of mine to a friendship that was very new and growing, but they are definitely on the list of DON'TS, and need to be respected.

Only seconds after having done one of the 'dont's' I realised that it may not have been the 'thing' to do, but it was done, and to this day I am still apologising to Sichanh for any discomfort I may have caused him. He just smiles sweetly, knowing there was never any ill intent or disrespect on my behalf.

The following are some cartoon images of do's and don'ts for Laos, I found them in the Lao airlines inflight travel magazine 'Champa Holidays'. (I imagine they would stand you in good stead in other southeast Asian countries as well).

The Lao word for Hello is 'sabai dee' usually said with a smile. Touching or showing affection in public will embarrass your hosts.

Lao people traditionally greet each other by pressing their palms together, although it is acceptable for men to shake hands.

Kissing and hugging in public is
impolite. Please be discrete.

Remember, your head is 'high' , your feet 'low', it is polite to gently crouch down when passing someone who is seated. Never, ever step over someone in your path.

Coyright unknown, image taken from Champa Holidays

In Laos your head is 'high' your feet 'low'. Using your feet for anything other than walking or playing sport is generally considered rude.

Lao people speak softly and avoid confrontation. Please do not shout or raise your voice. Before you take a photo of someone ask if it is ok.

Touching someone's head is very, very impolite. Lao people appreciate clean and neatly dressed visitors.

Please do not distribute gifts to children as it encourages begging, but give to an established organization or village elders instead.

Bathing nude or in bathers in public is impolite.

Try eating delicious Lao food whenever you can, it helps local business and Lao farmers.

Monks are revered and respected in Laos. However women should not touch a monk or a monk's robes

Please help keep Laos clean and beautiful by not leaving litter. Picking up rubbish sets a good example for Lao youth.

Please show respect and dress neatly while in temples and when taking photos. There are many other sacred items and sites in Laos. Please don't touch or enter these places without permission.

Laos loses a little of its heritage every time an antique is taken out of the country. Please do not buy antique Buddha or other sacred items. Instead, support local craftsmen by purchasing new, quality handicrafts.

Fellow Australians (and others), you may be interested to read below some of the do's and don'ts that I found published on the internet for foreigners visiting our shores.

The following are pretty much all news to me!

They are from the Travel Taboo Guide

Do not be offended being addressed by your first name. In Australia, first names are used both in personal greetings and business correspondence. Professional titles are not prominent in Australian business culture, and are sometimes dismissed as pretentious.

Do not touch, pat or hug other men in public which is considered socially unacceptable.

Do not visit without an appointment. Unannounced visits are not part of Australian culture, always make a call before you wish to meet the people.

Do not blow your nose in public, it is socially unacceptable.

Do learn some knowledge of major sports and how the local team is getting on if you want to associate with Australian males. Sport is supreme in Australia.

Do feel 'at home' when invited to an Australian house. Australian hospitality tends to be very informal,and you will be encouraged to serve yourself.

When I read the first piece of advice from this list I immediately thought of an incident which happened many years ago in the Channel 10 green room in Melbourne.

One of our guests for Good Morning Australia that day was a Mr Ocscar de la Renta (I'm sure you have all heard of him).

Now I think I can safely say that Mr de la Renta would never be greeted by 'Hi Oscar' in either Spain, France, or New York (well at least not by people he has never met before and certainly never by someone younger than himself to boot), but that is exactly how he was greeted in the green room on this particular day...with a 'Hi Oscar'!

When I heard this, I held my breath and waited for the reaction, none came....he's a gentleman (and a very handsome one at that), but in that split second I was terrified for the young segment producer.

Familiarity can be very disconcerting for many visitors to Australia and often considered rude, in this particular case I would have to agree (although I'm sure it was not intended to be).

As for me, I clearly need to brush up on my sport, keep my hands to myself, stop hugging men in public and remember to sniff not blow!

Have a great Tuesday

Millie x

Thursday, 12 April 2012

Addresses in lantern lit Luang Prabang

I am sure you all know by now how much I love the town of Luang Prabang (in Northern Laos), its people, its heritage and its uniqueness. I hope sincerely that this gorgeous place can retain its authenticity as the years pass and it finds itself welcoming more and more tourists.

The UNESCO World Heritage listing has saved much of Luang Prabang from having its shabby chic french architecture and traditional wooden Lao houses razed to the ground, and has helped Luang Prabang retain its old world charm. I am told that it is in fact one of the most authentic towns to be found in southeast Asia today and the current restriction of disallowing any large tour buses to enter the town's centre can only be a good thing.

Having said all this, tourism is of great importance to the people of Luang Prabang and in fact for a lot of Laos, so I imagine the challenge will be to keep its renowned old world charm and laid back atmosphere while still catering to the tourists. So far so good.

Early evening and some flowery old world charm on Luang Prabang's main street

One of the most delightful areas of this town is the main street itself, (Sakkaline Road & Sisavangvong Road, they run into each other), its where you will find many of its cafés, restaurants and little shops. But certainly do not restrict yourself to the main street, wander the other streets and alleys, they hide all sorts of treasures.

In case you ever venture to this southeast Asian jewel here is my little book of addresses (it's little because I am only including the places I have personally experienced, and that have either taken my eye for some reason or been personally recommended).

Where to Stay

My first visit was spent at The Apsara Hotel which sits opposite the Nam Khan river on Kingkitsarat Road. The position is excellent, a 2 minute walk to the main street and the tranquility of the river opposite. I would have stayed here again for my second visit if i could have.

Rooms and bathrooms are just as they are photographed on the hotel's website. The open air restaurant, bar and reception area has a low key tropical feel and leads onto a terrace. The staff could not be more helpful or considerate, (being greeted by Khamsing's beautiful smile each morning at breakfast was the sweetest start to each day). Their terrace restaurant is also a great place to enjoy their Asian and western fusion dishes.

There is also The Apsara Rive Droite (as you will see on their website) , its gorgeous but on the other side of the river to the centre of town. Here you will find a tropical garden and pool. If you don't stay here, take a walk over the Nam Khan via the bamboo bridge and visit anyway).

My second stay was spent at the Riverside Guesthouse, a cheaper option than the Apsara. It has the same location, situated opposite the Nam Khan river on the same street. If you are traveling by yourself I advise you not to take the single room as it is very small. Half way through my stay I moved from the single room to the front double room with a balcony (a large and more comfortable option). This guesthouse is a good choice if your budget is too tight for the Apsara. Both hotels have a terrace dining area on the bank of the Nam Khan.

Other hotels that have caught my eye while wandering Luang Prabang are;

Satri House here , Villa Chitdara here Belle Rive Boutique Hotel here & 3 Nagas here

Where to eat

If you are staying at The Apsara, take breakfast at the hotel, the setting and the breakfast itself are great. However when I was at the Riverside Guesthouse I would go to one of my two favourite 'french' cafés on the main street for a croissant and coffee.

Le Banneton (café french bakery) - 46 Sakkaline Road (spelt many ways Sakaline, Sakkarine, Sakkaline)!! for great bread and pastries (photo below)

Le Banneton

Le café Ban Vat Sene, on Sakkaline road, great for lunch, dinner, pasties coffee or glass of wine. It belongs to the same group as the renowned L'Elephant Restaurant, The Mango Tree, and The 3 Nagas.

Just a warning before I mention the restaurants, I am certainly no food critic (and I never remember to jot down what I have eaten) but I do love food and the following are restaurants I have enjoyed and that you may like to try.

L'Elephant Restaurant (French) here
Enjoyed the french ambiance and the food.

Sala Café Restaurant - (French, Lao, Thai & Vietnamese dishes) sits opposite the Nam Khan river on Kingkitsarat road. I have eaten or stopped here for a glass of wine many times and enjoyed the terrace setting and the food. Yum to the spicy Larb salad, a Thai dish with minced beef (or other meat) served with sticky rice.

Tamarind Restaurant and cooking school - Kingkitsarat Road - Their terrace is always overflowing with clients, but to be honest I cannot rave about the one meal (and one course) I had here. However it was... one meal, and it is overflowing with people every night and day so they must be doing something right. Worth a try.

3 Nagas here the restaurants are attached to their very elegant boutique hotel (which comprises of three heritage listed buildings). Serves Lao and western dishes and you can choose to sit either in the restaurant or over the road in their luscious garden terrace, I enjoyed both.

Utopia here I randomly stumbled on this and love this new find. For a complete chill on the shores of the Nam Khan river head to this den of relaxation. You can chill on the bamboo terrace overlooking vegetable farms and the river while eating a mouth watering sandwich, take a yoga class on the deck as the sun rises, play a game of 'beach' volleyball, lounge in the open air bar or garden (dotted with old UXO bombs, a very sad and violent story behind these, dropped during the 'secret war', and I think it is fitting to bring it to the attention of travelers ). Very cool place, don't miss it (photo below)

Lounging on the deck at Utopia (they describe it as 'zen by day groovy by night')

Bamboo terrace at Utopia

For another interesting bar location and another random find of mine, take the bamboo bridge (photo below) over the Mekong river, turn immediately left and follow the path to a little rustic bar, sit on tree stumps with a beer Lao and watch river life play out. (Sorry I do not know the name of the bar but its the only one there so you won't miss it).

This bamboo bridge will take you over the Mekong river (photo taken at dusk, note the smokey light, March is slash and burn season in Laos).

Blue Lagoon restaurant I have not eaten here but it was personally recommended to me) here

Un petit Nid Biblio Bistro 98 Sakkaline Road (another personal recommendation) and located in a heritage listed building.

Shopping

Even though I am not a 'shopper' per se I still managed to 'pop' into most of the shops while strolling the main street.

Firstly you cannot go to Luang Prabang without visiting their famous colourful night market, this takes place every night of the week (I'm not sure about low season), and takes up half of the length of the main street. My favourite buys are the elephant slippers, the bags and the scarves, and even though I'm not the biggest shopper on earth I still managed to weigh my luggage down with far too many of all of the above.

If you love a silver ring, bracelet or anything else in silver there are many shops to visit on the main strip and as you can imagine the choice is huge and the value excellent.

Clothes

Again... I am not a keen clothes shopper, and I like it to be over in a matter of minutes if it can be, and funnily enough in Luang Prabang it took just that... minutes to find that perfect little black summer dress that a lifetime never found in Australia.

You may have the same success if you 'pop' into either of these two gorgeous low key stores on the main street...they are;

Bamboutik (46 Sakkaline Road)

The little black dress (label Phao) that I purchased here is made from exquisite bamboo cotton and there is an interesting local story behind the label, read it here

Another little black dress was picked up in another favourite store of mine on the main strip but because of a lost notebook (that contained most of my travel notes :-/) I am unable to tell you the name!

However you may fall upon it; divine range of jewellery with an equally lovely range of clothing, situated on the left hand side of the road if walking west and only opened late in 2011. Not much of a tip really when there is no name attached to it but I was their first customer back in 2011 and I promised them after my second visit that I would include them in my blog (it's definitely worth a recommendation).

There really are so many high quality local handcrafts and other products available in Luang Prabang that it is impossible to give them all a mention here. You will discover them as you move around, its all part of the fun. There are clearly many very talented, industrious and hard working people in Laos.

Food

Last but not least, my favourite shopping experience, wandering the morning food market. I have mentioned this experience in previous blogs on Luang Prabang, but I can't bypass it here because it really is the most colourful and eye opening shopping experience of all. It's also a brilliant way to interact with the locals and buy some fresh fruit for the day. Get up early for almsgiving (see post here) and then make your way to the market.

The fishmonger in action at the morning food market

There are also many, many other fantastic discoveries to be made in the town of Luang Prabang and outside it, however that's another post for another day.

Almsgiving in the early hours of the morning is one of the most beautiful moments of the day in Luang Prabang

PS... Massage
After all that browsing, discovering and shopping don't forget a good massage or spa treatment. I love L'Hibiscus on Sakkaline Road no 45. Clean, relaxed tropical atmosphere and great massages. Enjoy

Millie xx

Post and all material © Copyright Millie Brown 2012

Monday, 5 March 2012

The old and the new Buddha

A monk sculpts a cement Statue of Buddha

I'm in Luang Prabang and while the sun is at its strongest and hottest I thought I would stay in the cool and blog a post.

It's only a few months since my last visit to Laos and I am once again enjoying the warmth and hospitality of the Lao people and making new discoveries.

In a city known for its enormous number of Buddhist temples you are bound to come across the odd statue or two of Buddha! There are the very old and the very new and I came across both in the one morning.

The toes are getting a lot of attention

Here (above) in an unfinished building in the grounds of the Temple of Vat Nong Sikhounmuang I had the good timing and good fortune to be passing by just as a monk was busy and concentrated on sculpting a cement statue of Buddha. Unfortunately the language barrier between us meant that I did not have the opportunity to gather much more information however I was content to watch him at work and snap some photos at the same time.

Restoring a 200 year old statue of Buddha at The Buddha Restoration Studio

Further into my day after having visited a sublime photographic exhibition called 'The floating Buddha' by German photographer Hans Georg Berger I happily discovered the Buddha Restoration Studio located in the same building and in the grounds of the Palace Museum.

The restoration work being done here currently is part of a 3 week project between The Lao Department of Fine Arts, Information of Culture and Tourism and the private Japanese Minobusan University in Minobu, Yamanashi prefecture.

The studio itself is part of the Training Technicians of Restoration in Buddhist Art and part of the world heritage of Luang Prabang here

Looking at some of the before photos (where there were missing arms and huge gaping holes) it is clear that the work they are doing is extremely delicate and the results amazingly successful.

.........from Buddha to fishing, I'm now off to find some fishermen on The Mekong.

Millie x

©Copyright Millie Brown 2012

All photos copyrighted please do not download

Friday, 27 January 2012

For the Love of elephants (Part 2) - The Elephant Conservation Centre in Sayaboury, Laos

The bungalows of the Elephant Conservation Centre (ECC) situated on the shores of Lake Nam Tien and set in protected and pristine forest in the province of Sayaboury, Laos.

In my last post For the Love of Elephants, in Sayaboury, Laos I wrote about the inspiring work being done at the Elephant Conservation Centre, work that is vital to the survival of the Asian Elephant in Laos, and to the survival of the centuries old tradition of mahoutship.

A quick recap......I visited the Elephant Centre back in December of last year (2011) and was blown away by the beauty of the location as well as the labour of love that goes into ensuring a healthy future for these amazing animals and their mahouts. If I was just a little in love with elephants before my arrival I was smitten by the time I left!

Here in this second post I am going to write just a little of what is on offer at the centre for both the volunteer and the guest, for more detailed information you can visit their website click

There are many possibilities for the visitor at the ECC, basically you can get your hands as dirty as you like (or not).

You can come for the day, stay a week or volunteer and stay for weeks or months at a time.

Whatever you do you can be sure to have a unique and special experience, surrounded by like minded people (locals and other visitors from all over the world) who care about the welfare of the Asian Elephant and its natural environment.

The centre and its 106 hectares of surrounding forest is a place of stillness, calm and beauty and is relatively isolated. Sayaboury the closest town is a 45 minute trip by Tuk Tuk and boat so don't expect to be popping down to the corner store or dining in restaurants such as those you will find in the town of Luang Prabang, and this is what makes it even more enticing and relaxing. (Luang Prabang by the way is around a four hour drive away).

The 'zen' bure (as I call it).....take a book with you (or don't), sleep, meditate, or just appreciate the raw beauty of nature from here

Settle in here with a beer Lao and watch the sun set

However, have no fear, you will eat well here.....the food at the centre is fresh and delicious. Meals are prepared by local staff in the kitchen attached to the terrace of the main bungalow, and it is here that guests gather to get to know each other, eat and relax.

The dishes are made using the best and freshest local ingrediants and there is always plenty of sticky rice, along with tasty meat and vegetable dishes, soups and noodles.

As far as scenery goes it doesn't get too much better than this

Volunteer or be a 'guest'

Volunteer and 'muck in', or come as a guest and learn, observe, relax and contribute.

As a guest you may come for a day visit only or stay as many nights as you wish. Accommodation is in traditional wooden Lao cabins (there are currently six) which sit above the ground on stilts and run on solar power.

While the cabins are basic, (they consist of a double bed with the mandatory mosquito net) they are clean and have their own private balcony, which by the way overlooks some of the most incredibly beautiful and serene scenery you will find anywhere in the world.

The toilet and shower facilities are shared and for those who love their hot shower (me)! the centre now has hot water for both the cabins and the dormitory.

A guesthouse consisting of five rooms is in the planning stages at the moment with construction commencing this year sometime. When it is completed you will get to enjoy private bathrooms and one large shared terrace....sounds wonderful and will definitely be my choice of accommodation when I return.

Even if you do have only one day to spend at the centre the program is run in such a way that you will get a great overview of the work being done there as well as taking in some of the most spectacular scenery in Laos. You will meet with the mahouts and get up close to some of the most beautiful creatures on the planet, the Asian elephant. The trip by boat on Lake Nam Tien into the protected forest where the centre is situated is itself an experience not to be missed. For more info on a 'typical' visit at the centre click here

Mounting an elephant - A mahout showing how it is done

It is totally up to the guest as to how much relaxation time they take for themselves and how many activities they take part in at the centre, however spending time with elephants in an environment such as this is a rare and special opportunity so I imagine most guests are keen to be as close to these animals for as long as is possible (we certainly were)!

Take your daily exercise in the forest with the elephants and their mahouts

Volunteers

The possibility to spend a month volunteering at the centre is only possible if you have completed the ECC's 6 day / 5 night Eco Volunteering program. (If after one month volunteering at the center you should wish to extend your time then this can be assessed and will depend on your skills and the centre's needs at the time).

This program however is not only open to those wanting to volunteer for a month (or longer) but open to all those interested in getting closer to the elephants and learning the basics of mahoutship.

If you decide to join up to this program you will have the possibility of feeding the elephants, helping out at the hospital or another area of the centre, and assisting the mahouts with their elephants in their daily routine. You can also extend this one week program to a longer duration if you wish to.

Once a 'long term' volunteer your work will be varied; you could be working closely with the elephants, working in the field, building, painting, gardening or giving a helping hand at the hospital, amongst other chores.

For more information on the Eco Volunteering program click here

This museum has a view like no other

During my few days at the centre I had the chance to meet and chat with quite a few of the volunteers working there at the time and they were all passionate, enthusiastic and loving their experience.

The volunteer's dormitory accommodation (currently five twin rooms) is located in part of the traditional Tai Lue house that now also houses the shop and museum.

The museum and shop fit perfectly into the natural environment. They are housed in a traditional Tai Lue house that once belonged to a famous elephant master and was re-located to the centre.

The museum at the centre is another place to sit, relax and learn. There are books, wonderfully informative panels on the Asian elephant, its history and its significance in Laos (all presented in three languages, Lao, English and French), and soon to be 3D models illustrating the various and changing relationship between elephant and man over the ages.

While spending time in the museum I read everything I could get my hands on, (see below for a list of a few of these beautiful books). Grab one of the books and snuggle up in the old elephant seat now situated on the terrace of the museum, its a comfortable and unique place to relax.

Also displayed in the outdoor area of the museum are artefacts and equipment from a time gone by, including old saddles, training cages, hobbles and logging gear.

A favourite meal with the elephants, they're all grown at the centre

No matter how you spend your time at the centre (as a volunteer or as a guest), and no matter what you decide to do with your time when you are there.....enjoy a refreshing swim in the lake, take exercise with the elephants, soak up information at the museum, visit the nursery, enjoy the fun from the pontoon during elephant bath time, or lend a helping hand......you can be sure that you are contributing in a large way to ensuring these magnificent Asian elephants, their mahouts and their families all have a healthy future.

Take a peek at some of these gorgeous books I found while I was in Laos.

A Journey Beyond the Mekong by Ben Davies here

Au coeur du Laos pour la protection des elephants d'Asie by Helen Segara here

Laos sur les rives du Mekong by Francis Engelmann, Yves Goudineau, Photography Serge Sibert here

If you would like to show your support for the conservation of elephants in Laos you can help by spreading the word and clicking 'f' below to share on facebook, thank you.

These photos are copyrighted, please do not download, thank you.